The European Union has banned a chemical widely used in gel nail polishes, sparking fresh debate over the safety of the popular beauty treatment. The ingredient, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), was officially prohibited on September 1, 2025, after regulators classified it as “toxic for reproduction” based on studies that linked high exposure in animals to reproductive health risks.
TPO, a photoinitiator, is responsible for triggering the hardening reaction that gives gel manicures their durability and shine. The treatment, which can last up to two weeks without chipping, has long been favored by salon-goers worldwide. The ban, however, has prompted concerns among consumers, with some questioning whether gel manicures are worth the potential risks.
Experts say the ban does not necessarily mean the treatment is unsafe for everyday users. “Millions and millions of women worldwide use gel nails and do not have problems,” said Dr. Phoebe Rich, a dermatologist in Portland, Oregon. Cosmetic chemist Kelly Dobos of the University of Cincinnati added that most studies into TPO’s risks involved feeding the chemical to rodents or injecting it under the skin—methods far removed from how humans encounter it during a manicure. She emphasized that exposure during the nail-curing process is minimal, as the substance is largely broken down by the light used to harden the polish.
For consumers seeking alternatives, Dobos noted that some polishes already rely on other photoinitiators, such as TPO-L, which remains legal in Europe.
Beyond chemical concerns, dermatologists continue to caution about other risks linked to gel manicures. The UV or LED lamps used to cure polish emit concentrated bursts of ultraviolet radiation, which can contribute to skin damage over time. Dr. Michele Green, a New York-based dermatologist, advises applying broad-spectrum sunscreen or wearing protective gloves before a session.
The application and removal process can also harm nails. Prolonged exposure to acetone and the use of drills or files to strip away old polish often lead to thinning, cracking, or white spots. “Once that nail is thinned and damaged, there’s nothing you can apply to bring it back,” Rich warned, noting that regrowth can take up to six months.
The U.S. Food and Drug Administration has also flagged risks associated with some gel polish removers, recently warning companies still using methylene chloride, a probable carcinogen banned in the United States. Experts advise salon clients to ask about product ingredients before treatment.
The rise of at-home gel manicure kits has introduced another layer of risk. Improper application can leave uncured acrylates—compounds in many gels—on the skin, potentially triggering allergic reactions. Such allergies can have lasting consequences, as acrylates are also used in medical devices ranging from bandages to dental fillings.
While gel manicures remain popular, specialists agree that taking precautions—whether by using sunscreen, choosing safer products, or ensuring professional application—can reduce the potential downsides of the beauty trend.
