The skincare industry is booming, with social media influencers and TikTok users enthusiastically promoting a myriad of products. Among the most discussed are retinoids and retinol, celebrated for their ability to reduce fine lines and stimulate collagen production. However, the question remains: are they as effective as claimed?
Retinoids are a class of prescription medications derived from vitamin A, according to Dr. Alexis Livingston Young, a dermatologist at Hackensack University Medical Center. Retinol, a more accessible version, is available over the counter but requires conversion by the body to become active. This key difference means prescription retinoids generally work faster and more effectively. Dr. Young emphasizes that extensive research supports the benefits of retinoids, describing them as the gold standard for anti-aging. “We have solid, decades-long data to back up their claims,” she states.
Many dermatologists recommend retinoids as essential for daily skincare, second only to sunscreen. “I think of sunscreen as brushing your teeth and retinoid use as flossing,” says Dr. Heather Goff, director of cosmetic dermatology at UT Southwestern Medical Center in Dallas.
However, potential users should be aware of side effects. Retinoids can cause skin irritation, redness, peeling, and dryness, particularly with stronger prescription versions. Dr. Shayan Cheraghlou from the Zitelli and Brodland Skin Cancer Center in Pittsburgh warns that initial irritation is common but typically subsides within three months of use. Individuals with darker skin tones may experience temporary pigmentation changes, but these usually resolve over time.
As the skin undergoes cellular changes, retinoids thin the stratum corneum, the outermost skin layer. This process can lead to increased exfoliation initially, according to Dr. Goff. Mild side effects may not necessitate discontinuation, as it can take up to 12 weeks to see improvements in skin concerns.
While retinoids can be beneficial, caution is advised, particularly for individuals with conditions like rosacea or eczema, who may struggle with the initial irritation phase. Additionally, those using chemical exfoliants should proceed with care, as combining these products can exacerbate irritation. Pregnant individuals are advised to avoid both prescription retinoids and over-the-counter retinol.
Concerns have arisen regarding the increasing use of retinol products among teenagers. Although a proposed California bill aimed to restrict sales of retinol to children under 13, it did not advance as of June 2024. Dr. Cheraghlou asserts that children and teenagers do not require retinoids for cosmetic purposes, as collagen loss typically begins in the mid- to late-20s. However, prescription retinoids may be appropriate for treating acne in younger patients.
For those considering adding retinoids or retinol to their skincare regimen, experts suggest starting slowly, especially for sensitive skin. Individuals should apply products at night to avoid sun sensitivity and should always use sunscreen during the day. The “sandwich method,” which involves applying moisturizer before and after the retinoid, can also mitigate irritation.
As the seasons change, Dr. Young notes that retinoid-related irritation may worsen in colder climates, advising users to adjust their routine as needed. Overall, experts agree that with proper care and caution, incorporating retinoids into a skincare routine can lead to significant improvements in skin health.